A Tramp Abroad - Volume 05 - Mark Twain - ebook

A Tramp Abroad - Volume 05 ebook

Mark Twain

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Titel: A Tramp Abroad — Volume 05

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A TRAMP ABROAD, Part 5

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A TRAMP ABROAD, Part 5.

By Mark Twain

(Samuel L. Clemens)

First published in 1880

Illustrations taken from an 1880 First Edition

* * * * * *

ILLUSTRATIONS:

1.    PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR 2.    TITIAN'S MOSES 3.    THE AUTHOR'S MEMORIES 178.  EXCEEDINGLY COMFORTABLE 179.  THE SUNRISE 180.  THE RIGI-KULM 181.  AN OPTICAL ILLUSION 182.  TAIL PIECE 183.  RAILWAY DOWN THE MOUNTAIN 184.  SOURCE OF THE RHONE 185.  A GLACIER TABLE 186.  GLACIER OF GRINDELWALD 187.  DAWN ON THE MOUNTAINS 188.  TAIL PIECE 189.  NEW AND OLD STYLE 190.  ST NICHOLAS, AS A HERMIT 191.  A LANDSLIDE 192.  GOLDAU VALLEY BEFORE AND AFTER THE LANDSLIDE 193.  THE WAY THEY DO IT 194.  OUR GALLANT DRIVER 195.  A MOUNTAIN PASS 196.  "I'M OFUL DRY" 197.  IT'S THE FASHION 198.  WHAT WE EXPECTED 199.  WE MISSED THE SCENERY 200.  THE TOURISTS 201.  THE YOUNG BRIDE 202.  "IT WAS A FAMOUS VICTORY 203.  PROMENADE IN INTERLAKEN 204.  THE JUNGFRAU BY M.T. 205.  STREET IN INTERLAKEN 206.  WITHOUT A COURIER 207.  TRAVELING WITH A COURIER 208.  TAIL PIECE 209.  GRAPE AND WHEY PATIENTS 210.  SOCIABLE DRIVERS 211.  A MOUNTAIN CASCADE 212.  THE GASTERNTHAL 213.  EXHILARATING SPORT 214.  FALLS 215.  WHAT MIGHT BE 216.  AN ALPINE BOUQUET 217.  THE END OF THE WORLD 218.  THE FORGET-ME-NOT 219.  A NEEDLE OF ICE 220.  CLIMBING THE MOUNTAIN 221.  SNOW CREVASSES 222.  CUTTING STEPS 223.  THE GUIDE 224.  VIEW FROM THE CLIFF 225.  GEMMI PASS AND LAKE DAUBENSEE 226.  ALMOST A TRAGEDY 227.  THE ALPINE LITTER 228.  SOCIAL BATHERS 229.  DEATH OF COUNTESS HERLINCOURT 230.  THEY'VE GOT IT ALL 231.  MODEL FOR AN EMPRESS 232.  BATH HOUSES AT LEUKE 233.  THE BATHERS AT LEUKE 234.  RATTIER MIXED UP 235.  TAIL PIECE

CONTENTS:

CHAPTER XXIX Everything Convenient—Looking for a Western Sunrise—Mutual Recrimination—View from the Summit—Down the Mountain—Railroading—Confidence Wanted and Acquired CHAPTER XXX A Trip by Proxy—A Visit to the Furka Regions—Deadman's Lake—Source of the Rhone—Glacier Tables—Storm in the Mountains—At Grindelwald—Dawn on the Mountains—An Explanation Required—Dead Language—Criticism of Harris's Report CHAPTER XXXI Preparations for a Tramp—From Lucerne to Interlaken—The Brunig Pass—Modern and Ancient Chalets—Death of Pontius Pilate—Hermit Home of St Nicholas—Landslides—Children Selling Refreshments—How they Harness a Horse—A Great Man—Honors to a Hero—A Thirsty Bride—For Better or Worse—German Fashions—Anticipations—Solid Comfort—An Unsatisfactory \ Awakening—What we had Lost—Our Surroundings CHAPTER XXXII The Jungfrau Hotel—A Whiskered Waitress—An Arkansas Bride—Perfection in Discord—A Famous Victory—A Look from a Window—About the Jungfrau CHAPTER XXXIII The Giesbach Falls—The Spirit of the Alps—Why People Visit Them—Whey and Grapes as Medicines—The Kursaal—A Formidable Undertaking—From Interlaken to Zermatt on Foot—We Concluded to take a Buggy—A Pair of Jolly Drivers—We meet with Companions—A Cheerful Ride—Kandersteg Valley—An Alpine Parlor—Exercise and Amusement—A Race with a Log CHAPTER XXXIV An Old Guide—Possible Accidents—Dangerous Habitation—Mountain Flowers—Embryo Lions—Mountain Pigs—The End of The World—Ghastly Desolation—Proposed Adventure—Reading-up Adventures—Ascent of Monte Rosa—Precipices and Crevasses—Among the Snows—Exciting Experiences—lee Ridges—The Summit—Adventures Postponed CHAPTER XXXV A New Interest—Magnificent Views—A Mule's Prefereoces—Turning Mountain Corners—Terror of a Horse—Lady Tourists—Death of a young Countess—A Search for a Hat—What We Did Find—Harris's Opinion of Chamois—A Disappointed Man—A Giantess—Model for an Empress—Baths at Leuk—Sport in the Water—The Gemmi Precipices—A Palace for an Emperor—The Famous Ladders—Considerably Mixed Up—Sad Plight of a Minister

CHAPTER XXIX

[Looking West for Sunrise]

He kept his word. We heard his horn and instantly got up. It was dark and cold and wretched. As I fumbled around for the matches, knocking things down with my quaking hands, I wished the sun would rise in the middle of the day, when it was warm and bright and cheerful, and one wasn't sleepy. We proceeded to dress by the gloom of a couple sickly candles, but we could hardly button anything, our hands shook so. I thought of how many happy people there were in Europe, Asia, and America, and everywhere, who were sleeping peacefully in their beds, and did not have to get up and see the Rigi sunrise—people who did not appreciate their advantage, as like as not, but would get up in the morning wanting more boons of Providence. While thinking these thoughts I yawned, in a rather ample way, and my upper teeth got hitched on a nail over the door, and while I was mounting a chair to free myself, Harris drew the window-curtain, and said:

"Oh, this is luck! We shan't have to go out at all—yonder are the mountains, in full view."

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That was glad news, indeed. It made us cheerful right away. One could see the grand Alpine masses dimly outlined against the black firmament, and one or two faint stars blinking through rifts in the night. Fully clothed, and wrapped in blankets, and huddled ourselves up, by the window, with lighted pipes, and fell into chat, while we waited in exceeding comfort to see how an Alpine sunrise was going to look by candlelight. By and by a delicate, spiritual sort of effulgence spread itself by imperceptible degrees over the loftiest altitudes of the snowy wastes—but there the effort seemed to stop. I said, presently:

"There is a hitch about this sunrise somewhere. It doesn't seem to go. What do you reckon is the matter with it?"

"I don't know. It appears to hang fire somewhere. I never saw a sunrise act like that before. Can it be that the hotel is playing anything on us?"

"Of course not. The hotel merely has a property interest in the sun, it has nothing to do with the management of it. It is a precarious kind of property, too; a succession of total eclipses would probably ruin this tavern. Now what can be the matter with this sunrise?"

Harris jumped up and said: