Wydawca: Tito Livraghi Kategoria: Styl życia Język: angielski Rok wydania: 2015

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Opis ebooka Trattoria's Food - Tito Livraghi

In Italy, trattoria means a family run, inexpensive restaurant, with unpretentious tableware. The menu usually offers local traditional dishes. What is the meaning of traditional dish? It means that that particular recipe is the result of many attempts, over the centuries, to achieve the best with locally available, nearly always simple, ingredients, but with due imagination have led to such sublimity, as tortellini in brodo, parmigiana di melanzane, or aranzadas. Such culinary creativity! If a modern chef invented pesto alla genovese today, he’d be forever famous. Why do trattorie in Sardegna serve malloreddos, in Emilia tagliatelle and in Puglia orecchiette? How many regional recipes are there? Some books report more than five thousand!! Here preference is given, region by region, to just some really local dishes. They will be presented with the relative recipe in photographs showing how they were served, i.e., the dishes have not been prepared specifically and photographed with professional technique. The book contains more than two hundred pictures and one hundred recipes, with their legends and historical background.

Opinie o ebooku Trattoria's Food - Tito Livraghi

Fragment ebooka Trattoria's Food - Tito Livraghi

TITO LIVRAGHI
TRATTORIA’S FOOD
***Copyright © 2015
3SUMMARY I. Trattoria’s food 1. Meaning of trattoria page 7 2. Six examples oftrattoria p. 9 3. Meaning of Traditional Dish p. 15 4. Italian Regionsp. 184.1. Piemonte p. 284.2. Liguria p. 314.3. Lombardia p. 324.4. Veneziep. 354.5. Sud Tirol and Trentinop. 384.6. Emilia and Romagnap. 41 4.7. Toscana, Umbria and Marche p. 44 4.8. Lazio, Abruzzo and Molise p. 474.9. Campaniap. 494.10. Puglia p. 514.11. Basilicata and Calabriap. 534.12. Sicilia p. 544.13. Sardegna p. 57II. Recipes p. 61 III. Index of Dishes and Glossary p. 105
4
5TRATTORIA’S FOODMEANING OF TRATTORIAIn Italy, trattoriausuallymeansafamilyrun,inexpensiverestaurant,withalessafuentclientele.Itisnormalfor an elderly man who no longer has a wife to prepare his meals, to spend an important part of his day here, histable,thewaitresswhowelcomeshimasoneofthefamily,thedailygossip,thelowprices.Intrattoriaportions are large, they aim at nourishment, there’s no elegant presentation, tableware is unpretentious. In the more modest trattoriethemenuhasaxedprice,meaningwithjustonetothreechoicesofrstandsecondcourse,changingeverydayandisoftenrepeatedthefollowingweek.Thursday,inLiguriaforexample,troeal pesto (1) and acciughe ripiene (2), and Friday zuppa di pesce (3) and cima alla genovese (4).4. cima alla genovese (see Recipes)2. acciughe ripiene (see Recipes)1.trofiealpesto(seeRecipes)3. zuppa di pesce (see Recipes)
6Usuallythemenuofferslocaltraditionaldishes.Forinstance,itisimpossibletondbagna cauda (5) or zampone con spinaci (6) on the menu of a trattoriain southern Italy, both dishes are from the north, PiemonteandLombardiarespectively,andviceversayoucan’tndseada (7) in the north, unless the trat-toria’s management is from Sardegna. Emigration hasalwaysbeenfromsouthtonorth,sothatinacityofgreatallurelikeMilan,itiseasytondtrattoriefromPuglia,Toscana,AbruzzoorSicilia.Overtimehowever some dishes have been adopted outside of theirplaceoforigin,becomingfamousandubiqui-tousnotjustinItaly,likelasagne alla bolognese (8) or spaghetti al pomodoro(9).6. zampone con spinaci (see Recipes)7. seada (see Recipes)8. lasagne alla bolognese (see Recipes)9. spaghetti al pomodoro (see Recipes)5. bagna cauda (see Recipes)
7Duringatripitisnicetoendup,tired,insomesmalltownandstarthuntingforthetrattoria, almost as if it wereaninstitution.Outdoorsitmightbebitterlycold,orfoggy,thestreetsdeserted,butthedooropensandthereweare,envelopedinawarmandwelcomingatmosphere,likea“mother’swomb”,thesteamywindows,noiseofpans,laughteratonetable,blueandwhitecheckedtablecloths,anolddresser,theowner’sdaughtersmilinglyasks“Okayhere?”.Overthepastdecade,thenumberoftrattoriehasdiminished,becausemanyownershavedecidedtotaketheleapandbecomerestaurants,butnearlyalwaystheatmosphereoftheplacehassuffered,losingauthenticity.Pizzerie,whicharetrattoriespecializinginpizza,makeupachapterontheirown,astheystartedoffinNaplesto then spring up all over the world.InancientRomepeopletravellingforofcialbusinessweregivenadocument,the“littera tractoria”(allowedtotake)whichwhenshown,grantedtherighttoeatinthestagingposts.Hencethenametrattoria.SIX EXAMPLES OF TRATTORIAIhavequiteafewfavoritetrattorie,thoseIcan’tresistvisitingwhenIpassthatway.I’lldescribesix.Therst,whichfromtheoutsidecouldn’tbemoreanonymous,isontheoutskirtsofPiacenza,inEmilia.Theirtortelli con le code (10),meltinthemouth,suchperfectiondoesn’tseempossible,oneleadstoanotherandyou’dneverwanttostop.Aftertastingthemthersttime,Ineverorderedanythingelse.WheneverIturnup,theowner,anardentoperafan,doesn’tevenshowmethemenubecausehe’sknownforyearswhattobring me. I’ve tasted the same dish in other trattorieor restaurants of the area, but never any as good as these. Servedwithafresh,crispGutturniowine.Atmidday,happinessisatablewithadozenorsochildrenfromthenearbyprimaryschoolwhocomeinforlunch.Thesecondisrightbythesea,inalittlegulfnearAncona,PortonovoinMarche.Thebatherswhocomeindirectlyfromthebeachmakethisplaceasinformalaspossible.Theirspecialtyismoscioli,tiny,specialtastingmussels,thatonlyinhabitthenearbysea.Thefewdishesonthemenuarespaghetti coi moscioli (11)and moscioli gratinati (12),butequallydeliciousaretagliolini al sugo di marebianco(13).AphotographofPrinceCharles,PrinceofWaleswhodockednearbyandaterighthereyearspreviously,hasplaceofhonoronthe wall.Trattoria in Emilia10. tortelli con le code (see Recipes)
8ThethirdisonthemountainsoverGenoa,inLiguria,theseavisibleinthedistance,theta-bles under a pergola, the vegetable garden full oftomatoes,basil,rosemary,marjoram,thyme,peppers,salad,courgettesandaubergines,alightbreeze,cricketschirping,thehandwrittenmenuonablackboard,theownerrecitingthenamesofthefewdishesresultingfromacentennialtradi-tion,thepleasureofconversationwatchingthesunset.Onthemenutheantipasto di maretiepido (14), pansoti alla salsa di noci (15), verdureripiene (16), frisceu (17), zuppa di baccalà (18) but only onThursday.Trattoria in Marche11. spaghetti coi moscioli (see Recipes)12. moscioli gratinati13. tagliolini al sugo di mare bianco (see Recipes)Trattoria in Liguria
9ThefourthisinVimercate,asmalltownnearMilan,inLombardia,whereIworkedformanyyears.Iwouldgotherewhenitwasrunbythegrandfather,thenthefather,todaybythegrandson.Elderlyladies,onceyoung14. insalata di mare (see Recipes)15. pansoti con salsa di noci (see Recipes)16. verdure ripiene (see Recipes)17. friscieu di verdure18. zuppa di baccalàTrattoria in Lombardia19. cassoeula (see Recipes)
10girls,workinthekitchenandwaitontables.Deadonthedotof12noontheworkersandpensionersarriveandleavebeforeone.Thenit’stheturnoftheemployeesfromthenearbymunicipality,lastlythebankclerks.Justafewdishes,thesameyearafteryeardependingonthedayoftheweek,inwinterit’scassoeula (19) on Wednesday.A“cult”mealinthearea,onSundayit’snotunusualtoseemenhurryingdownthestreetladenwithalargesteamingpotjustmadebytheirmotherorgrandmother,toquicklyputinfrontofthetablefulwaitingathome.TheyaresoquickservingthatsometimesI’veorderedbusecca (20),itwasTuesday,andseeitsteaminginfrontofmewithsomefragrantbreadrollsbeforeI’veevenremovedmyjacket.I’vetakencolleagueswhoareusedtogreatrestaurants,buttheyalwaysrememberthistrattoria. Some elder-lyguestsnolongerabletogetthere,sendsomeoneroundwithapantocollecttheirfavoritemeal,ossobuco con piselli (21), scigula e gnervitt (22), cotechino con purée (23). ThefthisinthenorthofSardegna,wherethecooklikestopreparemealsthatcan’tbefoundanywhereelse,ancientpeasantfood,suchasmazzafrissa whichisacookedcreamofsheep’smilkonabedofsaladorforseasoningsmallgnocchicalledmalloreddos (24), the rarely found lindeus(25),literally“God’shair”(apasta shreddedintoverynethreads,anddriedinthreesuperimposedlayerstocreateagauze-likeeffect)in20. busecca22. scigula e gnervitt23. cotechino e purèe (see Recipes)21. ossobuco con piselli
11mutton broth, callu de cavrettu(26)justaprimitivecheesediscoveredinMesopotamiave-thousandyearsagoinsidethestomachofafreshlyslaughteredyounggoatjustafterbeingfed,thechurdledmilkwasthenlefttoseason.Theisland’sshepherds,descendentsoftheSardaneswhocamerightfromtheMiddleEast,haveneverceasedmakingthisupintheirmountains.Itisverystrongavoured,tobeeateninsmalldoses,nottoeveryone’staste.ThemealiswasheddownwithVermentino,acold,crispstrongandaromaticwine,producedlocally,justafewmetersfromtheseadunes.Sometimes,nishedcooking,thecookwillbreakoutinsongwithherbeautifulvoice.ThelastisinAtrani,atownnexttoAmal,inCampania.Afewtablesrightonthemarina,behindthenestleofhouses,old,white,abitdilapidated,theonlyatspacesoccupiedbychildrenplayingtheirendlessgameoffootball,themotherscallingfromabovebecausedinnerisready.I’vealwaysgonewithalocalfriend,astheguestfromthenorth,onwhoma“bellagura”(goodimpression)mustbemade.Andtheownerplaysalong,andstartsbringingacrunchyfrittino (27) (a tiny version of the opulent frijenno and magnanno,i.e.”fryingandeating”,amixedfryinwhichtheingredientsarepreparedafewatime,henceeatenconstantlyjustready;thetraditionalrecipeenvisages36ingredients,includinganchovies,sardines,saltcod,polenta,zucchiniowers,Trattoria in Sardegna24. malloreddos con mazzafrissa25.filindeus26. callu de cabreddu
1229. spaghetti alle vongole (see Recipes)28. pizza Margherita (see Recipes)30. seppie con patate (see Recipes)31. babà al rum (see Recipes)27. frittinoTrattoria in Campania
13artichokes,borage,brains,bonemarrow,liver,sweetbreadsandpotatoes),andthenpizza Margherita (28), a taste of spaghetti alle vongole (29), to follow with seppia e patate (30), and to end with babà al rum (31), all washeddownwithamistyjugofFiano.AtsomepointtheusualtrioarrivestoentertainthecustomerswithNeapolitansongsaccompaniedbyamandolin,makingtouristsfeelapartofthepostcardtheywantedandcamerasstartashing,suchislife.MEANING OF TRADITIONAL DISHTherestaurantisdifferentfromatrattoria. It has to answertosomeconditionsofqualityandsometimesofsophistication,evenofcreativity.Inthebeginningtherestaurantwascreatedtopreparemealsfortheelitewhen,aftertheFrenchrevolution,thecooksofthenobilitywereleftwithoutajobandrecycledthem-selvesamongthepeople.Inthebest,thecloakroom,anelegantwaitingroomwithmagazinestestifyingtoprizesandnumberofstars,damasktablecloths,silvercutlery,anabundanceofglasses,thewinelistseeminglikeabook,thecondescendingsommelier,recipesimaginativelypresented,sometimesthewaiterstandingbehind,thechefappearingattheendofthemealtoacceptpraise.Ipersonallypreferahandwrittenmenu,afewtraditionaldishesandagoodlocalwine.Whatisthemeaningoftraditionaldish?Itmeansthatthatparticularrecipeistheresultofmanyattempts,overthecenturies,toachievethebestwithlocallyavailable,nearlyalwayssimple,ingredients,butwithdueaccompanimentandimaginationhaveledtosuchsublimity,astortellini in brodo (32), parmigiana di melan-32. tortellini in brodo (see Recipes)33. parmigiana di melanzane (see Recipes)34. aranzadas (see Recipes)
14zane (33), or aranzadas (34).Suchculinarycreativity!Ifamodernchefinventedpesto alla genovesetoday,he’dbeforeverfamous.Howmanyregionalrecipesarethere?Somebooksreportmorethanvethousand!!Justthinkhowmanypastashapesweknow,beitdryorfresh.Maccheroni, spaghetti, bucatini, paccheri, fusil-li, maniche, mezzemaniche, fedelini, tortiglioni, ditalini, eliche, farfalle, penne, tagliatelle, tajarin, pappardel-le, sagne, chitarra, cavatieddi, lasagne, bavette, strozzapreti, conchiglie, cannelloni, pipe, capellini, piccagge, malloreddos,fettuccine,zite,scorzette,pisarei,pici,alingiadas,blutnudeln,lindeus,fregula,bigoi,gnocchi,orecchiette,tria,gramigna,tonnarelli,tagliolini,troe,trenette,pizzoccheri,linguine,lombrichelli,malfatti,pinciarelli, garganelli, bavette, matassa, nido, mafalde, reginette, lumaconi, chifferi, gomiti, tortiglioni, ca-lamarata, ruote, creste di gallo, quadrucci, stelline, tempestina, maltagliati, scialatielli and so on...Andwhataboutlledpasta?Tortellini, cappelletti, agnolotti, anolini, ravioli, tortelli, schlutzkrapfen, pansoti, anvein, balanzoni, scarpineucc, broglioni, tortelloni, casonsei, culurgionis, marubini, cialsons...Whydotrattoriein Sardegna serve malloreddosand in Emilia tagliatelle?AndinVenetobigoi, and in Puglia orecchiette?InValtellina,avalleyinthenorthernpartofLom-bardia where, in the 15thCenturytherewasamassa-creofReformists,allthetrattorieserve pizzoccheri,shortthicktagliatellemadeofbuckwheatourandgenerouslyseasonedwithpotatoes,thinlyslicedcab-bage,butterandlocalcheese(35).Attheendofthevalley,aboutftykilometreslong,pizzoccheri areimpossibletond.In the trattorieofBrisighella,alovelysmalltowninRomagnaoncefamousfortheferocityofitsmercenariesandnowforitssuperneoliveoil,anelderlyladycanbeseeninthebackpreparinggarganelli. Flour water 37. tortelli di zucca35. pizzoccheri36. garganelli al prosciutto e piselli
15andeggsarekneadedbyhandonthewoodenboardwith some parmigiano cheeseandnutmeg;theroll-ingpinattensoutsomenottoothinsliceswhicharethencutinto5centimetresquaresandcombedwithaspecialutensilsoastoachievethegroovesidealforcapturingsauce;theneachlozengeofdoughisrolledaroundastick,andherearethegarganelliready to bewedwiththeirusualsauceofcream,parmigiano, hamcubesandpeas(36).Onlytobeeatenhere.Forcenturies,ItalyhasbeendividedintolittleStatesoftenatwarwitheachotherandtheresultingparo-chialism,meaninganexcessiveattachmenttoonesowntownandcustomsandridiculingthoseofneigh-bouringtowns,hasbeenpasseddown.Parochialismcanbeseeninmanyelds,manyoccasions,insport,politics,andalsointhekitchen.MantuaandFerrara,twobeautifullittleandhistoricaltownsjustafewkilometresapart,competewitheachotherbackfromthetimeoftheGonzagaandEstefamilies(we’retalkingabouttheXVcentury)theprimogenitureofravioli di zucca (37).ThepeoplefromFerraramakefunofthosefromMantuasayingthattogetgoodresultsthey’vehad to add mostarda and amarettotothepumpkin.Anelderlycookwastellingmethisquiteseriouslyjustsomedaysago,aftervecenturies.Somepeopleevensaythateachtypeofpastaisbestaccompaniedbyacertaintypeofsauce.Infactsomeunions are mandatory and this is how they are always served in trattoria, i.e. only bucatiniwith salsa all’ama-triciana (38), only orecchiette con cime di rapa (39), only tagliatelle with ragù alla bolognese(40).Howeversalsa al pomodoro(tomatosauce)canaccompanymanytypesofpasta,infactmenusjuststateagenericpasta al pomodoro.However,oftheovervethousandrecipestobefoundinthetrattorie, only a small minority, only the most tested,thebestknown,mostrequested,areactuallyserved.Onlyinsomecasesdoesthecookdelightinoffer-inglessknowndishes.38. bucatini all’amatriciana (see Recipes)39. orecchiette con cime di rapa (see Recipes)40. tagliatelle al ragù
16ITALIAN REGIONSItalyisdividedintofourparts,northern,central,southern and the islands.NorthernItalyiscomprisedof8regions:Piemon-te,Valled’Aosta,Liguria,Lombardia,Veneto,Friuli-VeneziaGiulia,Trentino-AltoAdigeorSudTirol,Emilia-Romagna.CentralItalyismadeupof4regions:Toscana,Marche,Umbria,Lazio.SouthernItalyof6regions:Abruzzo,Molise,Campania,Puglia,Basilicata,Calabria.Theis-landsare2regions:SiciliaandSardegna.Makingatotalof20regions(41).Eachoftheseregionshasdifferentgastronomicalcharacteris-tics.Theregionsinturnaredividedintoprovinc-es,makingatotalof109.Eachoftheseprovinc-es,havedifferentgastronomiccharacteristicstoo.Everyprovinceismadeupoftownsandvillagesthat,fromaculinaryviewpoint,canhavediversecharacteristics.Theresultbeingthatitisimpossibletofullyde-scribe,ifnotinavoluminoustome,thecharacter-isticsofthisenormousculinarypuzzle.Ofcourse,someroughideacanbegiven.ThenorthernregionsofItalyhavebeeninhabitedforathousandyearsbyCelticpopulations,whomadegreatuseofmeat,butter,lard,withlengthycookingtimes.Nowadaysthingshaven’treallychanged.Asalwaysinthecentral-southernregions,inhabitedbyGreeks,EtruscansandRomans,thebasicseasoningisoliveoil,withextensiveuseofshandvegetables,andashortcookingtime.TitoLivio,thefamousRomanhistorian,describesanenjoyableeventoccurringbeforethebirthofChrist.JuliusCaesarispraetorofMediolanum,today’sMilan,inhabitedbytheCeltseventhoughalreadypartofthefutureempire.HerehelaidthefoundationsforconqueringGaul,nowFrance.Heandhiscenturionsareinvitedtolunchbyoneofthetown’snoblemen.Whenthecenturionsseeaplateofasparagusseasonedwithbutterarriveontheirtable,theyrefusewithdisgusttoeatitbecauseinRomebutterisusedexclusivelyasanointmentformassagingthebody.SoJuliusCaesarscoldsthemsayingthatitisn’tgoodmannerstorefusethelocaldishes.Boiledasparaguscoveredwithgratedgrana padanocheeseandafriedegg,seasonedwithmeltedbutterarestilltoday,twothousandyearslater,atypicallombarddish(42).Anotherdiversitybetweenthenorthandsouthistherespectiveuseofriceanddrypasta. Immediatelyafterthewar,whentherewasmuchemigrationtowardsthefactoriesinthenorth,themothersoftheyoungsterswhowereleavingwouldurge:<Don’ttrustthosepeople,eatrice!>.RicewasimportedbytheDukeofMilan,GianGaleazzoSforza,intheXVcentury.TheatnessoftheterritoryandtheabundanceofsuitablygovernedwaterwaysenabledwidediffusionandeventodaytheplanesbetweenLombardiaandITALIAN REGIONS
17Piemonteareoneimmensericepaddy.LaSforzesca,alargeestateconceivedbyLeonardodaVinciwheretherstseedlingswereplanted,stillexiststoday.Thecanalswereteemingwithfrogs,sohereiswhererisotto con le raneoriginated.Despiteweedkillershavingdrasticallyreducedthenumberoffrogs,thisspecialitystill exists today in some trattorieinthearea.Overthecenturies,intheformofrisottoorsouporjustboiled,ricehasbeencombinedwithverymanyingredients,becomingoneofthefundamentalfoodresources.Itisimpossibletocountthenumberofcombinations.Anotherfoodwhichistypicalofthenorthispolenta,madewithcornour,itwasbroughttoEuropebyChris-topherColumbus.Hereitfoundtheidealconditionsforitscultivationandforcenturieshasfedgenerationsofthepoor.Thosewholackedanyaccompanyingrelishatepolenta aloneandbecameillwithpellagra.Eventoday it is a popular dish in the trattoriecombinedwithmushrooms(43),cheese,sausage(44)andmeatgravy.Polenta (or pulenta)derivesfromtheRomanpuls,madethenmainlywithbarleyour.Theemblemsofsoutherncookingaredriedpasta, pizza and a triumph of vegetables. SomeoldphotographsthathavegonearoundtheworldshowNeapolitan“scugnizzi”(streeturchins)whogorgeonspaghettiwiththeirhands,becomingatrademarkoftheoriginsofpasta.AtheorythatischallengedbysomewhosaythatdriedpastaoriginatedinChina,thispastawaseventuallyimportedtoVenicebyMarcoPoloin1292.Tosettlethequestiononceandforallthereistheofcialtestamentdrawnupin1279,inLiguria,byUgolinoScarpaforasoldier,PonzioBastone,whobequeatheda“barisella plena de maccaronis”(barrelfullofmacaroni).Butthereisalsoapassageinthebook“Thedelightofhewhodesirestojourneythroughtheclimates”writtenin1154byMuslimgeographerAl-Idrisi,whodescribesaliformtypeofpasta,“itrya”,producedinTrabia,atown30kilometersfromPalermo,inSicilia.Drypastawas a great invention for feeding theseafaringpopulations,somuchsothatitwasimmediatelyimportedtoNaplesandGenoa.InparticularitbecamethemainactivityinthelittleNeapolitantownofGragnano,thankstothebirthofnumerouspastamakingfacilities.Arailroadwasevenbuiltheretoconnectittotheregionalcapitalinordertofacilitatetrans-portationtotheport.Whateverthecontroversyintotheoriginsofdrypasta, that made of spaghetti, olive oil, tomatosaucewithparmigiano,haswonitsbattle.Itisincreasinglyeatentheworldovereversincethefamous“mediterraneandiet”hasbeenunanimouslyrecognizedasthehealthiestwaytoeat.Thereareaninnitenumberofaccompanyingsauces,oftenmadeupofjusttwoorthreeingredients,almostalwayssimpleandinterchangeable.Oliveoil,garlic,onion,anchovy,tomato,parmigianoor pecorinocheese,basil,parsley,eggs,seasonallegumesandvegetables,bacon,breadcrumbs,saltedricottacheese,clams,mus-sels,sausage,salt,blackpepper,peperoncino(chilli).Inthetimeittakestocookthepasta,thesauceisready.Allintwentyminutes.Asitissoeasy,howisitthatbadlymadepastacanstillbefound?Becausethepastahasbeenovercooked,44. salsiccia e polenta43. polenta e funghi42. asparagi alla milanese (see Recipes)
18thesaucewasn’tallowedtocookenoughandwaswatery,oritbecametoodense,becausethetypeofpastausedwasn’tsuitableforthatsauce,orbecausethetomatoesweren’tripeenough,orthesaucewastoosour,ortheoiltooheavy,orthecheesewaspackagedandnotfreshlygrated,ortheingredientsweren’tintherightproportions. Pizzaisapieceofrolledoutbreadpastryputoverthere,thewordderivesfrompitaasitisstillcalledintheMiddleEastwhereitoriginatedthousandsofyearsago.Buttheneapolitanimaginationtransformedthisbreadintoadelicacybyaddingoil,mozzarellacheeseandthen,afterChristopherColumbus,pommarola(tomato). It wasnishedoffbyliftingtheedgestomakeacornicione(frame)sothattheingredientsdidn’tescape.InJune1889QueenMargheritawasvisitingNaples.Curiousaboutthisnewdishshewantedtotasteitandinvitedthetown’sbest“pizzaio-lo”(pizzamaker)tothePalaceofCapo-dimonte.RaffaeleEsposito, this was hisname,thinkingthattheavorofthepopular pizza alla marinara (45), with garlic,oil,oreganoand tomato, may be toostrongforHerMajesty,preparedanother,milder ver-sion with mozzarel-la,tomatoandbasil:i.e. the white, red andgreencolorsoftheItalianag.TheQueen greatly appre-ciatedthisandaskedthe“pizzaiolo”the name of this pizza.Hesaid<Likeyou,yourmajesty,Margherita>andsincethenithasbeencalledpizza Margherita. Italian emigrants had already imported ittoNewYorkbytheendofthe1800’s.Walkingdownthelittlevillagelanesinthesouth,butalsoinsometownroads,onecanseebunchesoftomatoeshangingasasymboloftheimportancethesepeoplegivetotheproductsoftheland.Oreventomatoescutintwoandlefttodryinthesunout-sidethehouses,beforebecomingthatunique,simpledishbottledinoliveoilwithitssweetandspicytasteserved as antipastoandwhichwe’dcarryoneating“ad libitum” (46).Insouthernhousesapastarstcoursefollowedbyavegetabledishisthenorm.Re-46. pomodori secchi conditi45. pizza alla marinara (see Recipes)
19petitive?Absolutelynot,ifyouthinkofallthepossiblecombinationsofpastaandsaucesavailable,andtheunlimitedwaystopreparevegetables.Aubergineforexample,al forno, a fungitielli (47),spaccatelle (48), ar-