The Stag Cook Book
The Stag Cook BookC. MAC SHERIDAN
THE STAG COOK BOOK
WRITTEN FOR MEN BY MEN
COLLECTED AND EDITED
byC. MAC SHERIDANWith an Introduction by
ROBERT H. DAVIS
GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY
BY GEORGE H. DORAN COMPANY
THE STAG COOK BOOK, II
PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
THAT GREAT HOST
OF BACHELORS AND BENEDICTS ALIKE
who have at one time or another tried to
“cook something”; and who, in the attempt, have weakened under a
fire of feminine raillery and sarcasm, only to spoil what, under
more favorable circumstances, would have proved a
“They may live without houses and live
So the saying has gone through the ages,
“But a civilized man cannot live without
It’s a libel, as proved by these pages!
For when left by himself in a small
With a saucepan, a spoon and a kettle,
A man can make things that you’ll never
That will put any cook on her mettle.
Where camp fires glow through the still of
Where grills are electric and shiny,
Where kitchens are huge, done in tiling of
Where stoves are exceedingly tiny,
Where people are hungry—no matter the
A man can produce in a minute
A dish to bring smiles to each skeptical
With art—and real food value—in it!
At range and at oven, at (whisper it!)
A man is undoubtedly master;
His cooking is done with an air and a
He’s sure as a woman—and faster!
He may break the dishes and clutter the
And if he is praised—he deserves it—
He may flaunt his prowess until he’s a bore.
. . .
But, Boy, what he serves—when he serves
Robert H. Davis
Cooking is a gift, not an art. Eating is an art, not a gift. In
combination a grace is developed. No great culinary triumph was
ever perfected by accident.
Charles Lamb’s essay on roast pig was responsible for a tidal
wave of burnt pork that swept over England in the nineteenth
century. Mr. Lamb led a hungry empire to the belief that only
through an act of incendiarism could a suckling porker be converted
into a delicacy; whereas, as a matter of fact, the perfection of
roast pork, golden-brown and unseared by fire, were possible only
in the oven.
Lucullus, the good Roman gourmet, had his meals cooked in a
mint. He required that his masterpieces be served on gold and
silver and crystal, and spread on a table of lapis lazuli. The
sauces compiled for him were worth more than the food upon which
they were poured. He was the high priest of extravagance and
luxury. A single meal stood him a fortune. He had more regard for
the cost than for the cooking. It is said that his death was
hastened by dyspepsia.
In the early seventies a French nobleman, living in the
neighborhood of Barbizon, was found seated at the table with his
face in a plate of soup. Because of the fact that a butcher knife
had been inserted via the back between his fourth and fifth rib on
the left side, he was quite
Clues led nowhere. It became one of the mysteries.
Long afterward an old man tottered into the office of the
Prefect and announced that he wished to make a confession.
“Proceed,” said the official.
“’Twas I,” responded the ancient, “who delivered the death
stroke to the Duke de la —— thirty-five years ago.”
“What inspired you to make this confession?”
“I do not comprehend. The details, if you please.”
“By profession I was a chef,” said the self-accused. “The Duke,
at a fabulous price, enticed me into his service. His first request
was that I make for him a perfect consomme.
Voilà! For three days I prepared this perfection. With my
own hand I placed before him the soup tureen. With my own hand I
ladled it out. He inhaled its divine essence; and then, Your Honor,
he reached for the salt.
Mon Dieu! I destroy him!”
The Prefect embraced the artist and took him out to lunch. Thus
art was vindicated and the incident closed. In the chemistry of
cooking, “enough is too much.”
The immortals who have contributed recipes to this volume were
born with a silver spoon not in their mouths, but in their hands.
The cap and apron, not the cap and bells, is the garb in which they
perform. Secrets handed down through generations are thrown with a
wanton hand on the pages that comprise this volume. Sauces from the
south, chowders from New England, barbecued
masterpieces from the west, grilled classics from field and stream,
ragouts, stews, desserts, dressings are hung within reach of all,
like garlic clusters from the rafters of opportunity. Reach up and
Be not disturbed by occasional jocund phrases in this symposium.
Behind them is probably concealed a savory or a flavor. A long
paragraph may conclude with full particulars concerning the
architecture of a gastronomic dream. Turn the pages slowly lest you
be overwhelmed by the richness of the menu.
The late King Edward, upon bidding the later Carlos of Portugal
God-speed back to his native shores, inquired: “By what were you
most impressed during your visit to the British Isles?”
“Roast beef,” said Carlos, expanding in ecstasy.
“And what else?” inquired Edward.
“Well,” said Carlos, “the boiled beef wasn’t so damned bad.”
It is one thing to cook food, and another to consume it. This
inspired tome is the product of cooks who are not afraid to take
their own medicine. The names of many of the dishes catalogued
herein lies on the tongues of the mob, but the delicacies
themselves do not. This book brings within the reach of all
opportunities that up to now have been denied them. Given a first
class stove, a few simple ingredients and a copy of this book,
hunger can be abolished wherever English is read.
Rossini, the musician, also a chef, after writing the score of
The Barber of Seville, was informed by the director that a
prelude was required immediately. Rossini repaired to his kitchen,
cooked himself a perfect dinner, consumed it alone, and went to bed
where in a reclining position with score sheets all about him, he
wrote a brilliant introduction to his brilliant opera. Suddenly a
gust of wind entered unbidden at the window and scattered the
precious sheets about the room. Several disappeared through the
lattice. Rossini, heavy with the consequences of his culinary
genius, re-wrote a fresher and better prelude, tucked it under his
corpulent person and rolled over for a final nap, after which he
hastened to the opera house with his masterpiece. His best work was
done on a full stomach.
Brillat-Savarin, author of “Gastronomy as a Fine Art,” rather
whimsically names “Gasteria” the tenth and fairest of the Muses.
The writers of this book name her as the first.
R. H. D.
PART ONE: CONTRIBUTORSPAGEI Meredith Nicholson31WABASH VALLEY STEAKII Rex Beach34ONION CLAM CHOWDERIII Hudson Maxim35SPAGHETTIIV Warren G. Harding36WAFFLESV Ellis Parker Butler31BOUILLABAISSE JOE TILDENVI Jules J. Jusserand38RADISH SALADVII Bruce Barton39RICE PUDDINGVIII Richard Bennett40LIEDERKRANZ Á LA HOOSIERIX Walt Louderback41CORN CHOWDERX Captain Robert A. Bartlett, U.S.A.42COD FISHXI George F. Worts43SWEET POTATO PONEXII Gelett Burgess45PANDOWDYXIII William Allen White46VEGETABLE SALADXIV Irvin S. Cobb48HOG JOWL AND TURNIP GREENS (PADUCAH
STYLE)XV Richard Walton Tully49HAWAIIAN CROQUETTES Á LA “THE BIRD OF
PARADISE”XVI William Johnston51OYSTERS PECHEURXVII Dr. Charles M. Sheldon52LIKES BREAD AND MILKXVIII James Montgomery Flagg53“JAMES MONTGOMERY SUDS”XIX Roy L. McCardell54“EGGS MUSHROOMETTE”XX Judge Ben B. Lindsey56BRAN MUFFINSXXI Otis Skinner57ARTICHOKES, MISTER ANTONIOXXII Dan Beard58A BURGOOXXIII De Wolf Hopper60RASPBERRY SHORTCAKEXXIV Chick Evans61TOMATO SOUPXXV Joshua A. Hatfield63EGGPLANT SAUTÉ Á L’ALEXANDERPOTATO STICKS ALEXANDERCOLD SAUCE ALEXANDERSUPRÊME OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDERGARNITUREFONDU AU FROMAGE Á L’ALEXANDERPOACHED EGGS EN CROUSTADE Á L’ALEXANDERROMAINE SALAD Á L’ALEXANDERROGNONS DE VEAU Á L’ALEXANDERSTRAWBERRY TARTLETS ALEXANDERBAKED OYSTERS ALEXANDERÉMINCE OF CHICKEN Á L’ALEXANDERXXVI Stewart Edward White69MULLIGANXXVII Oliver Herford70FRIED ELDERBERRY BLOSSOMSXXVIII Reed Smoot71PEACH COBBLERXXIX Ray Long72SHAD ROEDESSERTXXX Kenneth C. Beaton73LOBSTERXXXI John Harvey Kellogg, M. D.75MACARONI WITH CHEESESAVORY POTATOESXXXII Clare Briggs77WAFFLESXXXIII Edward W. Bok78ASPARAGUSXXXIV Charles Hanson Towne80CORN PUDDINGXXXV Jerome D. Kern81TERRAPINXXXVI Daniel Willard82COTTAGE PUDDINGSTRAWBERRY SAUCEXXXVII Houdini83SCALLOPED MUSHROOMS AND DEVILED EGGSTHE MUSHROOM DISHTHE EGGSXXXVIII Charles P. Steinmetz84MEAT LOAFXXXIX Charlie Chaplin86STEAK AND KIDNEY PIEXL Dr. Frank Crane87ROUND STEAKXLI Robert H. Davis89CREAM SAUCE Á LA WORCESTERSHIREXLII John A. Dix90FRIED TROUTXLIII Guy Bates Post91LAMB CURRY Á LA “OMAR, THE TENTMAKER”XLIV Dr. Don Rafael H. Elizalde93SANCOCHOYAPINGACHOXLV Bide Dudley95TOMATO SOPXLVI William Hale Thompson96ROAST BEEFXLVII Booth Tarkington97CORN FLAKESXLVIII T. A. Dorgan98CHILÏ CON CARNEXLIX William de Leftwich Dodge99RAGOUT DE MOUTONL Montague Glass100BOUILLABAISSELI John Philip Sousa103PELOTAS Á LA PORTUGUESESPAGHETTILII Will Hays105CHICKEN PILAULIII Frank Ward O’Malley106RUM-TUM-TIDDYLIV Charles Evans Hughes108CORN BREADLV Walter Prichard Eaton109MINCE PIETHE FILLINGLVI W. T. Benda113POLISH SPECIALTIESBARSHCK WITH USHKAUSHKABURACHKILVII Captain Edward A. Salisbury118SAUCE FOR SPAGHETTIEGGS Á LA SALISBURYFISH Á LA COMMODORETO COOK TROUTVENISON STEAKGOOSEA MAYONNAISE AND A SALAD DRESSINGDUCKS AND LARGE FOWLTEAL, PARTRIDGE AND SMALL FOWLBEANSITALIAN RICESTEAK SAUCELVIII Thomas H. Ince126CHICKEN HALIBUTONION SOUP AU GRATINRICE Á LA MANHATTANLIX George Ade128“SCOLLOPED” OYSTERSLX Lyman Abbott130DEEP APPLE PIELXI Terry Ramsaye131LETTUCE (Á LA RED CREEK)LXII R. L. (Rube) Goldberg133HASHLXIII Channing Pollock134CORN BREADLXIV Hussein Kahn Alai135CHIRIN POLOWLXV William J. Bryan138FRENCH-FRIED ONIONSLXVI Will Irwin139HAM AND EGGSLXVII Douglas Fairbanks140BREAD TARTLXVIII Julian Street141SOLE Á LA MARGUERY AND DUCK WITH ORANGESSOLE Á LA MARGUERYDUCK BIGARADELXIX S. S. McClure143OMELETTE—AND PIELXX Basil King145LOBSTER Á LA KINGLXXI John A. Moroso146SPAGHETTI-FOR-THE-GANGLXXII F. X. Leyendecker148VEAU SAUTÉ MARENGOVOL AU VENT FINANCIÉRELXXIII Eddie Cantor150BOILED BEEF AND HORSERADISH SAUCELXXIV Frazier Hunt151STUFFED CELERYLXXV Wm. Slavins McNutt152ORANGE COMPOTELXXVI Stephen Vincent Benet154ZITELLI’S MACARONI STEWLXXVII James R. Quirk155TOMATO WIGGLELXXVIII Charles W. Eliot156A FAVORITE MENULXXIX H. S. Cumming158VIRGINIA EGG BREADLXXX Joseph Santley159COCOA CREAM CAKELXXXI A. Hamilton Gibbs160SQUAB EN CASSEROLELXXXII Richard Barthelmess161SPICED GRAPESLXXXIII Don Juan R. y Gayangos162EGG PLANT AU GRATINLXXXIV Samuel G. Blythe163TRIPE Á LA MODE DE CAEN Á LA ROY
CARRUTHERSLXXXV Charles H. Taylor165CLAM CHOWDERLXXXVI Cyrus H. K. Curtis167BAKED BEANSLXXXVII Frederic Arnold Kummer169SPAGHETTI DIABOLIQUELXXXVIII Albert D. Lasker170CHICKEN PAPRIKALXXXIX Henry Van Dyke171FISH CHOWDERXC Macklyn Arbuckle172SOUTHERN GUMBO Á LA “COUNTY CHAIRMAN”XCI John Taintor Foote174MORELS SAUTÉXCII Maurice Francis Egan176A DIPLOMATIST’S RECEIPT FOR WELSH RABBITXCIII Livingston Farrand178SAUSAGE AND GRIDDLE CAKESXCIV F. Ziegfeld, Jr.179LITTLE CHICKEN TARTSXCV Harold Lloyd181LEMON LAYER CAKEXCVI Luther Burbank183TURKEY Á LA BURBANKXCVII Raymond McKee185TO COOK RABBITSXCVIII Will Deming187VIRGINIA HAMLEMON PIEA DRESSINGXCIX Charles W. Chessar189TIPS ON STEAKSC Arthur T. Vance191SALADE Á LA TURCPANDORA FRENCH DRESSINGWELSH RABBIT Á LA MORGAN ROBERTSONCI Baron de Cartier195WATERZOIE DE VOLAILLECII Dean Cornwell197SPAGHETTI-MY-STYLE