Bologna, the indulgent - Andrea Brentani - ebook

An unusual way to see and taste Bologna. The guide is timed to help you to plane your day in the city. The hours can be organised as you wish by food, because, in Bologna the Fat, food is a life-style and in Bologna the Learned, food is tradition and culture. Let's experience one day with breakfast, lunch and dinner surrounded by museums and porticoes. Another day you can try a brunch in an “osteria” or hot doughnut at four o'clock in the morning or taste wines in a wine shop while exploring secret gardens and towers. Whatever you decide, Bologna will satisfy your desires. This guide presents Bolognese typical cooking recipes to take home the city's delicious smells and soul along with your pictures and memories. This guide has also maps and pictures.

Ebooka przeczytasz w aplikacjach Legimi na:

czytnikach certyfikowanych
przez Legimi

Liczba stron: 138

Odsłuch ebooka (TTS) dostepny w abonamencie „ebooki+audiobooki bez limitu” w aplikacjach Legimi na:


Andrea Brentani, Katia Brentani, Simona GuerraBologna, the indulgent  

Prima Edizione Ebook 2015 © Damster Edizioni, Modena

ISBN: 9788868102357

Translator: Benedetta Pini

Revisors: Alison Jermyn, Nicola J. Fabrizi

Cover: Chiara Renda

Photo: Giuliana Berozzi, Alfredo Sartori,

Damster Edizioni

Via Galeno, 90 - 41126 Modena  e-mail: [email protected]

Andrea Brentani, Katia Brentani, Simona GuerraBologna, the indulgent

Translator: Benedetta Pini


Table of contents



07:00 | 10:00


10:00 - 12:00


12:00 – 15:00


12:30 – 14:30


15:30 – 17:30


18:00 – 20:00


19:30 – 22:30


22:00 – 24:00


24:00 – 04:00


24:00 – 12:00


00:00 – 24:00


00:00 – 24:00


00:00 – 24:00


00:00 – 24:00












Rosemary Crescente


Fried Crescentine


Bolognese tuna loaf

Mousse di mortadella





Manicaretto Garisenda

Tagliatelle al ragù

Stianconi with tomato and onion

Strichetti with ham and peas sauce

Cannelloni Bolognese style

Bolognese Lasagna


Bolognese cutlet

Arista (Roasted pork loin)

Meatballs with peas and potatoes

Stuffed Courgettes




Torta degli Addobbi (rice cake)

Zuppa Inglese

Cherry biscuits

Zuccherini bolognesi


Tortelloni della Vigilia

Tagliatelline in broth

Gramigna con la salsiccia

Penne all’arrabbiata con la pancetta dolce (Fiery penne with unsmoked pancetta)


Ossobuchi Bolognese style

Faraona arrosto (Roasted Guinea-fowl)

Coniglio arrosto (Roasted rabbit)

Coniglio in umido (Stewed rabbit):

Spezzatino con patate e piselli (Veal stew with potatoes and peas)

Salsiccia stufata con fagioli (Sausage stew with beans)

Sausage and beans casserole

Cardi (Cardoons)

Finocchi con la besciamella (Fennel with white sauce)


Fiordilatte (Milk and vanilla pudding)


Bomboloni (Italian doughnuts)


Andrea Brentani

Katia Brentani

Simona Guerra


In his book, entitled “Science in the kitchen and the art of eating well”, Artusi stated: “When you hear someone speak about Bolognese cooking, salute it, because this cooking deserves it”.

That is why Bologna is called “the Fat”; its opulent cooking is known worldwide.

This culinary art is not only based on tortellini, lasagne and mortadella but there are many other specialities making Bologna cooking unique and inimitable.

In this guide we will tell you about Bologna delicacies, taking you through the typical places of the city so that you can learn about recipes and choice ingredients... in one word the “Bolognesità”.  Only through its food can you appreciate the true Bolognese essence and soul.

Bologna’s pasta is made with eggs and flour, such as its famous tagliatelle. They have to have the “perfect” length and thickness. The official measurements of “tagliatella alla Bolognese” are: 8 millimetres once cooked, 6.5-7 millimetres raw and this is equal to the 12,270-th part of the height of the Torre Asinelli. These measurements are deposited with notary act at the Chamber of Commerce of Bologna.

Now let’s start with the ragù. The real Bolognese ragù.

Browsing this guide you will find the recipe to make it just right. The one and only ragù. Let it simmer and while you are waiting and smelling the wonderful aroma, read how this ragù was born.

“Spaghetti alla Bolognese”, one of the most famous dishes in the world, does not exist in Bologna. We are sorry to let you down, but this is the hard truth.

After reading this guide, we are sure you will not forget Bologna and its cuisine.

In this guide we recommend the places that make Bologna special and unique; historical shops, restaurants, bars, bakeries etc. handing down the tradition of Bologna and offering delicacies and recipes of the original Bolognese cooking art.

The guide is timed to help you to plane your day in the city. The hours can be organised as you wish by food, because, in Bologna the Fat, food is a life-style. 

Let’s experience one day with breakfast, lunch and dinner surrounded by museums and porticoes.

Another day you can try a brunch in an “osteria” or hot doughnut at four o’clock in the morning or taste wines in a wine shop while exploring secret gardens and towers.

Whatever you decide, Bologna will satisfy your desires.


07:00-10:00 ► Breakfast  Bolognese style

10:00-12:00 ► Snacks Bolognese style

12:00-15:00 ► Brunch Bolognese style

12:30-14:30 ► Lunch Bolognese style

15:30-17:30 ► Tea break: tea and pastries, ice cream

18:00-20:00 ► Happy hour

19:30-22:30 ► Dinner Bolognese style

22:00-24:00 ► Osterie and Wine shops

12:00-04:00 ► Cakes shops and bakeries open all night

00:00-24:00 ► Bologna hills

00:00-24:00 ► Bologna Apennines

00:00-24:00 ► Bologna lower plain

00:00-24:00 ► Dozza Imolese, Castel del Rio, Castel San PietroTerme

00:00-24:00 ► Altedo

00:00-24:00 ► Bologna’s historical restaurants, bars, osterie, wine shops, cake shops, delicatessen, bakeries, groceries

00:00-24:00 ► Events, Bologna’s popular and unknown places

07:00 | 10:00



You wake up early to explore Bologna. Early in the morning you can enjoy Piazza Maggiore uncrowded, only few citizens will cross the square to go to work, the “Umarell” (retired people discussing about soccer matches and politics, always with their hands folded behind their backs) and pigeons roosting on buildings ledges. 

The white granite pavement of the square dates back to 1934, its colour gives it the nickname the “Crescentone” because the square looks like the “crescenta”, the typical focaccia (Italian flatbread) made in Bologna.

You will glance at the clock of the high and slightly leading Torre dell’Arengo (47 m. high). It rises above the Palazzo del Podestà. This palace was built about the year 1200 as the seat of power of the chief magistrate and his officers. Under the porch of the Palazzo del Podestà, there is the Tourist Office and in front of it, there is the Basilica di San Petronio.

The first stone of construction was laid on June 7th, 1390, when the town council entrusted Antonio di Vincenzo (1350-1402) with building a Gothic cathedral.  However, in 1514 Arduino degli Arriguzzi proposed a revised plan in the form of a Latin cross with the intent to outdo even Saint Peter’s Basilica of Rome, the greatest church of the Western Christian world even in its ancient version. According to tradition, Pope Pius IV halted such a majestic project.

Even though San Petronio is not the largest church in the world, its meridian is the longest. It was built by astronomer Gian Domenico Cassini in 1776.

Behind the Palazzo del Podestà, there is the Palazzo Re Enzo. This palace was built between 1244 and 1246 to host the city magistrates. The building, also known as Palazzo Nuovo, has this name because of King Enzo of Sardinia, son of Emperor Fredrick II, was captured during the battle of Fossalta (year 1249) and he stayed in the palace for 23 years until his death (1272). The lamp of the Palazzo Re Enzo lights up everytime a baby is born in Bologna.

If you are with friends, you can play Chinese whispers under the vaults between Palazzo Re Enzo and Piazza del Nettuno. You can achieve a particular acoustic effect by speaking quietly from opposite corners of the tower’s supporting pilasters.

On the opposite side of the street, there are the “Pavaglione” porticoes. Pavaglione is the dialect word for “pavilion”, the typical tent used to shadow the porticoes in order to protect silkworm booths during the silk market that took place every year from 1149.

With the fall of the silk market which was very important for Bologna, the market was definitely closed.

At the corner between piazza Galvani and via Farini, in the cosmetic shop, you can see the original shelves of the well-known “Libreria Cappelli” bookshop. On the palace façade there is the Cappelli family’s coat of arms; a spider weaving its web and a commemorative plank.

In front of this shop there is another historical bookshop, the “Libreria Coop Zanichelli”, where the poet Giosuè Carducci used to rest, read and meet other poets before going to the Archiginnasio to teach his students.

The Archiginnasio was the seat of Bologna University, before moving to Palazzo Poggi in via Zamboni. The Archiginnasio has ancient roots as the first university in the Western world. It dates back to 1088, this conventional date was set by a group of historians lead by Giosuè Carducci.

The construction of the Archiginnasio was commissioned by Pope Pius IV through the papal legates Carlo Borromeo and Pier Donato Cesi during the years of the Council of Trent, who then entrusted the project to Antonio Morandi (known as Il Terribilia), who finished the construction between 1562 and 1563. The aim of this project was to create a single place to unify the several university departments, which at that time were located throughout the city. The building is made up of two levels with a lower portico with 30 vaults and inner courtyard. The walls are finely decorated.

Walking under the porticoes to Piazza Maggiore, you reach the Museo Civico Archeologico di Bologna - The Archaeological Civic Museum of Bologna located here from the 15th century Palazzo Galvani since its official opening on 25 September 1881.

This museum is one of the most important museums through archaeological finds in Italy and it is highly representative of the local history from the prehistoric period to Roman Age.

If you do not feel like visiting museums and you prefer to enjoy other places, let’s cross Piazza Galvani, walk under the big vault in front of the statue and you will reach the court of Corte Galluzzi where there is a tower. There are so many towers in Bologna, that is why it is called the city of “Hundred Towers”.

Walking under another vault, you will reach via D’Azeglio street, the “salotto buono” (the richest and most glamorous area of the city). It is a street with fine shops and at number 15 there is the house of the famous Italian musician and singer Lucio Dalla. In the nearby small square, Piazza dei Celestini, the artist from Treviso, Mario Martinelli created for “Artefiere show”, the artwork “L’ombra di Lucio” - “the Shadow of Lucio” next to the balcony of Dalla’s studio.

From via D’Azeglio street, you can reach again Piazza Maggiore and visit Palazzo d’Accursio, the historical seat of the municipality, but since a few years, many offices were moved to the new building in Piazza Liber Paradisus.

Palazzo D’Accursio is still the town hall, hosting the mayor office and the hall of the communal council. The name of the building comes from its first owner, Francesco Accursio, jurist in Bologna. On the main façade of the palace you can see, engraved on  Istrian stone slabs, the official Medieval units of measurement of “coppo”, “mattone”, “piede” (0.38 m.), “braccio” (0.64 m.), “doppio braccio” (1.28 m.) and “pertica” (3.80 m.) reminding us the “palatium bladi” (public deposit of grain) and the portico with its wide open gallery was used as fodder market.

The hall of the palace is a bordered stairway which was most likely conceived by Donato Bramante, commissioned by Pope Giulio II. The stairway steps are very low and it has a particular shape because it could be accessible for coaches and horses.  The several halls of Palazzo d’Accursio can be visited (Sala Farnese, Sala d’Ercole, Sala degli Anziani and Sala Bianca). Every Bologna citizen knows the Sala Rossa (Red Hall), a place full of history and very evocative: recalling the typical paints of Bologna, its name comes from the deep red colour of tapestry matching perfectly the cotto tiles floor. Here civil marriages are often celebrated. In the Palazzo d’Accursio until 28 October 2012 there was the Museo Morandi seat, now provisionally moved at MAMbo - Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna (Bologna Modern Art Museum), in via Don Minzoni  14, to allow the fixing of water damage after the earthquakes in Emilia-Romagna in May 2012.

Outside Palazzo d’Accursio you can admire the Fontana del Nettuno. Bologna citizens call it the “il Gigante” (“al Zigànt” in Bologna dialect, “The Giant”) because of its size. The statue was commissioned by Carlo Borromeo, the Cardinal Legate of Bologna, to symbolize the fortunate recent election of Borromeo’s uncle as Pope Pius IV. The work was designed by the Palermitan architect Tommaso Laureti in 1563, with an over-life-size bronze of the god Neptune on the top, executed by Jean de Boulogne, called Giambologna. Bologna citizens often point out a “particular” characteristic of the statue to tourists, explaining that Giambologna wanted to create the Neptune with bigger genitals but the Church prevented it. The artist did not give up and designed the statue so that seen from a particular angle the Neptune’s outstretched hand from behind seems like an erected genital. The evidence of this “trick” is proved by a black tile in the pavement of Piazza del Nettuno, called “the Shame”from where the sexual reference can be easily seen.

In front of the Neptune statue there is the “Sala Borsa”, a building that had several uses for years (telegraph office, sport centre and a puppet theatre). Today it is the Bologna Multimedia Public Library. Walking along the underground path located under the glass pavement of the Sala Borsa Library, it is possible to admire the ancient excavations, found during the restoration works of the so called “piazza coperta” (“covered square”). Hundreds of years of city’s history: from the first settlements out of straw huts of the Villanovian culture to the Etruscan Felsina, to the Roman Bononia, founded in 189 b.C.

If you have not had breakfast yet or have just drunk an espresso, let’s have a proper breakfast Bolognese style. How is breakfast enjoyed by Bologna’s families? Espresso and a slice of ciambella cake called the Brazadèla or a “Raviola alla mostarda” (pastry filled with jam-like fruit custard).

The ciambella is the equivalent for a Bologna citizen of a madelaine for Proust. If you like to make it and taste the typical Bolognese breakfast, you will find the recipe in the dedicated chapter at the end of this guide.


Pasticceria Impero

Via dell’Indipendenza 39, Bologna >051 232337

A good selection of handmade pastries - pistachio doughnuts, wholemeal raspberry brioches and other delicacies.

Opera Caffè e Tulipani

Via Alessandrini 7, Bologna >051 245122

This bar has a wonderful view from the patio of a canal. It is located amongst old houses along via Alessandrini and via Capodilucca. In this area, the millers used the strong current of the river for their mills. Today there are no more mills, but the sound of the fall is still here. A good selection of traditional Bologna cakes.

Bar Pasticceria Minny

Via Porrettana 64/2, Bologna >051 6142250

Bar and cake shop near the Basilica di San Luca, since 1980 the owners have baked sweet and savoury specialities. Cream-filled choux, cannoli, doughnuts, fruit mustard filled raviole to accompany cappuccino, espresso and hot chocolate. Handmade “panettone” and “colomba” during Christmas and Easter time.


Via Mascarella 81/h, Bologna >051 4210582

Colourful and cosy, it is the first fair trade bar using organic ingredients. In the morning you can enjoy an espresso, organic extracted fruit juice, muffins and cakes. 

Pasticceria Santo Stefano

Via Santo Stefano 3, Bologna >051 224160

Bar and cake shop where you can stop for breakfast. Espresso is very good as are their doughnuts, brioches and biscuits. Small pet friendly shop.

Forno e Pasticceria Pallotti

Via del Borgo di S. Pietro 59, Bologna >051 242417

The delights of handmade fresh bread and a cappuccino have been served here since 1969. Handmade biscuits and pastries and traditional Bologna cakes.


C’era una volta

Via Frassinago 21, Bologna >051 333220

Artisan bakery where you can buy fruit mustard raviole or filled with cream and black cherries and Bologna’s ciambella. The “Parmigianini” bread bites with Parmesan cheese are highly recommended.

Lo Sfizio

Via Riva Reno 100, Bologna >051 269981

A cosy place, remembering the old familiar shop’s atmosphere, it offers traditional bakery products and a selection of products made with organic ingredients and sourdough.


Caffè Terzi

Via Oberdan 10/d, Bologna >051 0344819

An exclusive, top quality, first choice place. Wide selection of the best quality raw coffee from the most important ports such as Trieste and Hamburg. Tea leaves exclusively selected by Terzi.

Caffè 14 Luglio - La Bottega del Caffè

Via Orefici 6, Bologna >051 236720